When news came in that fashion designer Duran Lantink is doing a residency at London’s experimental store 50m, we simply had to get in the know. Opening tomorrow and running until June 5th, Straight from the Sale Bins is the Dutch designer’s exploration of the phenomena of Black Friday and Sales Riots. Known for his unrelenting desire to disrupt the reign of fast fashion and the damage it has caused to our planet, Lantink will also present a 10-piece capsule collection made from dead designer stock.
Alongside the in-store installation and the capsule collection, the LVMH semi-finalist invites 10 guests to a personal session with him, during which they bring a garment and share its story with the designer. Lantink will then reassemble the piece at his Amsterdam studio and return it the original owner with a new lease of fresh, re-purposed life. Intrigued by the collaboration and Lantink’s ever-inventive manner of destabilising canonic practices, we asked the designer to share his stance on revolutionizing fashion. Below is his written manifesto, which we strongly advice be translated to the real-world industry with urgent immediacy.
Fashion is always involved in a form of revolution. It becomes a revolution within itself. It’s about finding new ways of progression within society. In a Western European context, I believe it’s of high importance to create circular fashion, as we can make the change. It’s the practice of recreating and reconstructing unused materials and fabrics as we become increasingly aware of the damaging effects and pollution fashion causes.
We need to deconstruct unused and old items that people have forgotten, items they no longer use, to give them new leases of life and transform them into something new and valuable. This ethos doesn’t have to stop at clothing. I have recently begun deconstructing interiors in addition to garments.
Re-purposing old stock into new garments adds a new element to an item, making it less cliché and adding a unique quality. The future moves towards people not wanting to purchase high-priced new materials that will harm the environment, but instead they wish to buy re-purposed items and create a more sustainable industry and world. With stores like 50m, which stock designers that support this mindset, it can help create waves for change.
The new way of fashion.
The lines between fashion, art, culture and music are blurred They are all labels that look the same. Calling my residency at 50m an art piece doesn’t accept that this is the new way of fashion. I prefer to call the clothes I make fashion as opposed to art. The installation is, of course, art being created and presented with artists, but the clothing pieces for sale are to be worn daily. It remains very much fashion, and 50m might be hosting an installation, but it still is a retail store selling in the retail realm, doing it with a sustainable approach.
Fashion as story-teller.
Telling a story helps people understand exactly where you’re coming from. People have needed stories and narratives since the beginning of time. Transparency is definitely the most important aspect of fashion’s story-telling. We need to look at where garments came from, who made them and how long will the product will last. Society has become tired and frustrated with the fashion industry selling a pipe dream. It’s time to cut the bullshit, as people become clued-up on what they’re buying into. I don’t believe in the motto “sex sells”— it’s a false veil used to fool people.
Telling the truth.
The phrase “the truth always comes out in the end” can be applied to most things, including fashion. With this in mind, I prefer to tell stories with facts and remain transparent, as opposed to alluring people into a lie.