Wherever Martine goes, her unique London culture follows

“Where do we find beauty?” This is the question that the British Jamaican designer Martine Rose posed for her SS25 collection. The answer? Like any excellent designer, Rose lets her work speak for itself. We were invited to Rose’s show in Milan to witness what turned out to be a thought-provoking and deeply reflective show. In the designer’s eyes, beauty is found in the cracks of culture, the unpredictable, and the unusual. Her Milan debut was no casual affair; Rose intentionally challenged her audience by presenting her collection in a city synonymous with mainstream beauty and fashion. One thing is sure, however: wherever Martine goes, her unique London culture follows. In a world where everybody seems lost, Martine stands out, knowing exactly where she is headed. 

As we stepped into the show’s location, we were instantly transported to a late-night rave party: flyers scattered on the floor, mass-purpose seating constructions, and fabric sheets suspended over the space. It’s dark yet intimate. It is in these spaces where beauty quietly emerges.

Nose Jobs in Disguise:
This season, the models’ look made a bold statement. Resembling troll-like figures, they zigzagged through the space in long, unkempt wigs and latex-coloured prosthetic noses. The designer sought a confrontational, “obviously fake” look in which conventions of beauty, character, and anonymity were boldly questioned.

Protective vs Fragile:
The dichotomy of fragile vs. protective is essential in this collection, as is the relationship between utility and glamour. This play of elements echoes in pieces like the leather utility shorts and the silk dress paired with brassiere cups moulded from motorcycling elbow patches and knee guards. 

Local Hero and the staples:
No one does it like Rose when it comes to staying true to your core. In this collection, several archive pieces re-emerged– from floor-length coats to jackets tucked in like shirts. The term “Local Hero” appeared on several hats, showing the brand’s commitment to celebrating its values and authenticity throughout the collection.