“The club of wild painters” that German expressionist artists formed in Dresden in 1905 sparked a flamboyant inspiration for Munich-born fashion designer Marie-Sophie Beinke some 110 years later. Beinke lost herself in their gaudy, artificial colour palette and applied her own passion as a painter to envisage her multi-coloured graduate menswear collection at the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts. As of this coming Friday, the designer’s work is on show at New Fashion Perspectives, our 10-day exhibition in Amsterdam. Don’t miss this one!
What’s the story or concept behind your pieces on show at New Fashion Perspectives?
It was a painting that struck me for this collection: a view of a forest by Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, German expressionist painter and member of the artist group “Die Brücke”. The man I dress is a painter. The garment being the canvas, I turn his innermost thoughts and feelings to the outside. I use two visual languages, free painting and abstract shapes, and merge them in order to create a graphic tension. Also, I use techniques that reflect various cultural traditions of different social and ethnic groups and their crafts: classic menswear and suits but also the kimono provide pattern inspirations. Block printing, hand-painting, tufting, knitting and embroidery are features of this collection. With diversity in tailoring, material and print I am paying tribute to one of my favourite artists.
What does being a fashion designer in 2016 mean to you?
I love to be it—I am all in.
Is there anything specific that distinguishes your perspectives, ideals or methodology from that of other designers or artists?
With the clothes I create I always aim to reinvent myself, telling a story as if I were a designer, sculptor, painter and musician at once. Maybe I have understood that the more you find your own perspective, the more you also become open to those of others around you. The constant urge of the industry to “distinguish” yourself turns into a way of truly being able to collaborate with others that see the same truth.
What do you want people to remember about your work?
As a young designer, how do you feel about the current speed and state of fashion? How does your work respond to this?
It’s senseless and makes me feel upset. I wish to create fashion that is not fast lived. With the formation of an idea it’s like it is with a baby; a child is not born within a day. It takes time.